Past Article:

Work on the Lunge Line

After many requests to expand on the lunge article from the past I have written this article covering many of your questions. 

To lunge or not to lunge: that is the question.  
Much has been written for and against lungeing.  Many riders are confused and either love or hate the whole concept of lungeing the horse.  Like so many other things, lungeing done correctly is tremendously beneficial to the horse’s training.  However, there are many bad accidents that occur when lungeing so if you are not sure how to lunge or do not have a suitable area or the right equipment- don’t!

This young horse is beginning to learn to work into a contact.  The length of the side rein should be sufficient to let her feel the contact.  There should be a soft "U" shape under her neck. 

Once she started to work the outside side rein can be seen helping to keep her evenly bent on the arc of a large circle.  She is working forwards into the contact and swinging nicely through her back. 

Compare her shape to the horse's shape below.  Can you see a difference in the degree of impulsion and collection?

This horse is tacked up for work on the lunge.  He is wearing side reins attached to the saddle.  The reins are twisted through the throat lash allowing him to stretch forwards.  A lunge cavasson is often difficult to fit over the bridle. This horse has a short attachment across the front of his nose.  I prefer to lunge a horse from a ring on the front of the nose rather than the back of the halter.

This horse is working forward well.  He has a lovely big stride and is making a nice 'V' shape with the diagonals.  His tail is swinging indicating he is relaxed.  He is engaged from behind.

Becoming competent in the subtle art of lungeing is difficult as becoming competent in the art of riding.  It takes years of practices to be able to ‘school’ on the lunge line.  When done well by an expert the horse can be assessed and trained to improve his/her balance and suppleness without the extra weight of the rider.  The trainer/rider has a can see how the horse is carrying him/herself.  It is an opportunity to evaluate how the horse is muscling up, is stepping through in the transitions and how he/she moves.  It is a time when the horse can develop self-confidence and better self-carriage. 

What you need to be able to lunge:

• A lunge line or lunge rope that is soft and comfortable in your hand
• Side reins that are long enough for your horse
• A saddle or roller to attach the side reins to when your horse is working 
• Brushing boots as protection in case your horse knocks his/her legs 
• A well-fitted cavasson to lunge from is the best as you can lunge from the cavasson and not interfere with the bit
• If you do not have a well-fitted cavasson, you can use an attachment across the front of the horse’s nose from one side of the bit to the other. 
• You can also lunge with the lunge line over the horse’s poll
• A lunge whip that is not too heavy for you to manage

What should you wear to lunge your horse:

• Always lunge with a good pair of gloves 
• Wear a hard hat if you think the horse may play around and kick out 
• Never wear your spurs- if you step back you could easily trip over your spur
• Never wear a jacket that flaps as the noise could scare your horse

Where should you lunge your horse:

• In an enclosed area
• Big enough for the horse to work on circles and straight lines
• Where the footing is level, not too deep or too hard
• Where there is no unnecessary equipment lying around

This is a great arena. It is large and bright.
The footing is perfect and there is no unnecessary equipment lying around.

Many people discount lungeing as part of the horse’s on-going training program.  Lungeing is viewed as part of the initial training. Although this is true, lungeing is so much more than this simple acclimatisation to the tack and working.  Lungeing at a later stage is seen as a way to ‘get the buck out’ before you get on.  If this is true, see if a change to your management helps. 

·         What is your horse's feeding program?

·         Does the horse get any time out at grass to relax and play?

·         Check the saddle and bridle to make sure nothing is pinching.

Ask Yourself the Following Questions:

• Is it safe to lunge my horse?  If your horse has to be lunged before I can safely ride, your horse is at risk of getting injured as he/she ‘plays’ on the lunge circle. 
• Is my horse’s diet suitable?  A horse needs protein for growth and repair.  If your horse is not growing and is not in very hard work, some good quality meadow or timothy hay should be enough.  Add in a low protein mix if you feel your horse does not have enough energy to work.  We feed our horse to allow him/her to work; not work our horse to get rid of the excess energy.   
• Am I giving my horse enough time to relax and simply be a horse?   Remember that horses are meant to wander over the plains for many miles.  When you cope a horse up in a small stall for many hours a day, he/she will become anxious and tense. 

When should you lunge your horse:

• When you want to evaluate your horse’s way of going
• To train your horse to improve his self-carriage and rhythm
• To loosen your horse’s back prior to riding
• To help your horse understand the contact
• To teach/school a horse to go with more impulsion
• To teach/school the half-halt and transitions 
• When you are short of time

When should you NOT lunge your horse:

• When there is a high wind
• When the ground conditions make it unsafe for the horse
• When there is a lot of distractions
• When there are novice riders in the ring
• When a jumping lesson is going on in the ring

How to lunge:

• Start the horse off on the rein he/she is more comfortable – generally this will be the left rein.  Allow the horse   to move around to loosen off at the walk and the trot.  Change direction and allow the horse to stretch on the right rein.
• Assess the length of side reins you are going to use depending on how the horse’s muscle development and way of going.  The side reins are used to giver the horse a contact to work up into.  They are used to help him/her stay evenly bent through the whole body.  A rough guide would be that the head is slightly in front of the vertical and there is a nice soft ‘U’ shape between the horse’s jaw and neck.  The poll should be the highest point on the neck.  If he/she breaks at the third vertebrae the side reins are too short and need to be lengthened immediately. 
• Attach the side reins with the outside rein first going in the direction the horse finds easier (generally the left).
• The horse needs to move away from the trainer.  The trainer is the leader of the herd and therefore always drives the horse away.  Take care not to allow the horse to move away in a straight line or you may get kicked or the horse run away.  You would be left skiing on your face!  Always keep the horse turning around you. 
• The whip is like the leg driving the horse forwards.  The lunge rein should be held in a way that you will not get your hand caught with a contact that is similar to the riding contact. 
• There is a straight line from your elbow through your hand to the horse’s nose.
• Move the horse into a trot.  Keep the circle as big as possible while still maintaining your contact. 
• Work your horse in both directions taking care as you change the rein to give the horse enough room to move around you.  Be careful not to get the rein tangled around your hand or foot – it happens!
• Fifteen to twenty minutes is enough for the average horse.  Lungeing is hard work and could cause a strained muscle or tendon if they are worked too long. 
• Canter work is very strenuous and requires expert lungeing .  Avoid the canter until you and your horse are comfortable with the work at walk and trot and all the transitions

What to look for in your horse's way of going:

• The horse should swing through the back at the trot.  Look at how the horse is carrying his/her tail.  The tail is a continuation of the spine.  If it is up and swinging from side to side so is the back.
• The length of stride with the front foot and hind foot should be the same.  Look and see where the horse is   stepping.  There should be a ‘V’ shape where the diagonals meet at the trot.   
• There should be a soft ‘U’ shape between the horse’s jaw and neck.
• The nose should always be slightly in front of the vertical.

This dressage/event horse is learning to step forwards into a contact and find his own self-carriage. His owner is learning how to school her horse on the lunge line.

If you have any further questions on lungeing your horse please contact me directly

At www.janearmour.com.